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WWI German Irregular Polygon Printed Camouflage Fabric
Working with “Lozenge” Decals
Applying Transparent Decals

WWI German Irregular Polygon Printed Camouflage Fabric

To be precise, there is no such thing as “lozenge” camouflage. A lozenge is a four sided planar figure with a diamond-like shape. The shapes in WWI German airforce printed camouflage fabric generally have six sides, so they are technically polygons. The official German term for this preprinted camouflage fabric was simply — Flugstoff.

Development

The element of surprise has always been a tactical advantage in warfare. It proved no different in the evolution of aerial combat. During WWI initial efforts to conceal aircraft from the enemy involved painting camouflage patterns by hand on the airframes. But this was time consuming, and the dope paints used added additional weight.

To help streamline aircraft production, the Idflieg (the bureau of the German War Office that oversaw Military Aviation) developed Flugstoff — aircraft linen with a dye printed camouflage pattern. This reduced the man-hours and materials otherwise used painting the camouflage patterns. And, because the dyes used to print the fabric weighed less than paint, Flugstoff had the added benefit of reducing weight — thereby contributing to improved aircraft performance.

While no official Idflieg report has surfaced detailing the origin of the colors selected, it seems likely that these Flugstoff patterns were based on the color theories of the Impressionist Art Movement. The concept was that when two different spots of color are placed next to one another, and viewed at a distance, the eye visually mixes them to produce a third color. This optical “blending” could be influenced by environmental lighting and thereby change the resulting third color. So practically speaking, the camouflage looked different under different lighting and blended with the surroundings. Simple yet effective.

Patterns

There were several different varieties of Flugstoff patterns printed for use with day and night operations. The most common were the five-color (Fünffarbiger Flugstoff) and the four-color (Vierfarbiger Flugstoff) patterns. Both of these were printed in different color schemes for both the upper and lower surfaces. Additionally, there were different patterns and colors developed for use with Naval operations.

Fabric Orientation

A detailed description of application methods used by the manufacturers is beyond the scope of this article. Put simply, several methods were used to apply the original printed fabric to the airframe. All methods involved the assembly of various pieces of fabric to form a covering large enough to fit the intended area. The pieces were always butt joined and sewn along the selvage edges. These coverings were then attached to the airframe by stitching them to the ribs and edges.

The most common application method by far was Chordwise, with the fabric running parallel to the wing ribs or “chord” of the wing.

An alternate application method was Spanwise. Here the fabric was applied perpendicular to the ribs, parallel to the leading edge. This was the simplest method since a single run of fabric could cover most of the wing with only a single seam needed to add any additional material.

The least common method was Diagonal, with the fabric being applied at a 45 degree angle to the line of flight. Again this meant multiple panels to cover the wing. Due to the increased area of the fabric joints this was the strongest method.

Ailerons and elevators were usually covered spanwise. This simplified application by minimizing the number of seams needed.

Consult references for the correct pattern and method for your subject. It was not uncommon for airframes to have mixed patterns (i.e. four color fuselage with five color wings, etc.).

Rib Tapes

These were strips of fabric generally applied over each full rib and around the edges of the wings to reinforce stitching. They were approximately one inch wide. The tapes could be created from camouflage fabric, or strips of solid blue or salmon pink fabric. Tapes were not applied to elevators or ailerons.

There are different opinions as to whether rib tapes were applied as a single/continous piece wrapped around the entire rib profile (both the upper and lower wing surfaces), or as individual strips for each surface. If they were single/continuous pieces, then in instances where camouflage tape was used, the continuous tape would contrast against one of the wing surface coverings (i.e. Upper scheme tapes would contrast against lower surface coverings and visa versa.). If they were separate camouflage strips for upper and lower surfaces, then they could be matched to the background pattern.

Machines built by Albatros received salmon pink rib tapes. OAW machines received blue. Fokker-built machines only used camouflage tapes. However, camouflage tapes have also been found to be used on some Albatros and OAW-built airframes as well.

Working with “Lozenge” Decals

Tools and materials needed:

Dividers
Xacto knife
Straight edge
Clean, distilled water
Small, shallow container for water
Saucer or other non-porous surface
Q-tips (cardboard stem)
Soft, lint-free cloth
MicroSet
MicroSol

Preparation

These decals represent printed bolts of camouflage fabric with edges trimmed and sewn for application to airframes.

Study the reference material on your chosen subject. If possible, determine the patterns used for both fuselage and wings (they may differ) and the application method (see Fabric Orientation).

NOTE: Upper and lower patterns did not always meet at the centerline of the leading edge. On some aircraft (like the Fokker D.VII) the upper surface pattern continued past the leading edge centerline.

A copy of a scale drawing of the aircraft will be helpful to plan the decal layout.

It is essential that these decals be applied to a gloss finish. This provides the best surface for the decals to adhere. We recommend khaki or olive as a base color to help conceal any possible gaps.

Take your time applying the decals. Allow each piece to dry before working on the next.

Application

Begin with the lower surfaces. Carefully measure the intended area (dividers are useful for transferring measurements), being sure to add a little extra at the ends—this will be trimmed later. Cut the piece of decal you need from the sheet.
Dip it in the water for no more than five seconds. Submersing the decal for a longer period of time can dilute the adhesive and interfere with the adhesive qualities. Place it on a nonporous surface and wait for it to loosen from the paper backing.
Apply a small amount of Microset solution to the surface where the decal is to go. When loosened, gently slide the decal from the backing into place. You can use a moist finger or a Q-tip.
Exact position can be achieved by moving the decal with a Q-tip. Carefully blot up the excess moisture with a soft cloth. Then, gently press the decal to the surface, starting at one corner and working over the entire surface of the decal. Try not to shift its position. Apply a thin film of Microset over the decal and blot up any excess. Difficult areas (compound curves, extremely detailed areas) may require the sparing use of MicroSol.
When dry repeat the process for the next panel. When the lower surfaces are done, clean up the edges with an Xacto, trimming excess material. Repeat this process for the upper surfaces.
When all the decal panels have been added to both upper and lower surfaces, the rib tapes can be applied. These cover all full rib (not riblet) locations of the wings. They were not applied to elevators or ailerons. Camouflage tapes can be created by cutting strips (length wise) from the decal material.

Finishing

While great effort has been expended to produce decals with an accurate color rendition, the overall effect may not please everyone. If these colors donít suit your taste then change them. After the lozenge decals have dried apply a transparent glaze of yellow/orange to warm them up, or blue to cool them down. Darken them with a glaze of neutral “smoke” color. Or, fade the colors with a glaze of “sail” color. For additional visual interest apply MD-48008 (1/48 Woven Linen Fabric Texture) after a coat of clear gloss.

After the national markings and stencils have been added, a ìtop coat” can be applied. We suggest a matt finish.

Applying Transparent Decals

When using transparent decals a perfect bond with the underlying surface is absolutely vital. Any air trapped beneath the decal surface will create a condition known as “silvering” and produce unsightly white patches. Therefore, a slightly different application approach is recommended to achieve perfect results.

The decals MUST be applied to a smooth gloss surface.
Plan ahead and limit the size of the decal that you are applying to what you can handle comfortably. Transparent decals are very thin (essentially just a clear membrane) and tear if abused. Choose a size that you can easily slide off the backing and into position without risk of folding or stretching.
Measure the target area and cut out the decal.
Dip the decal into clean filtered warm water for no longer than 3 seconds. Make sure the entire backing has absorbed water. Place the decal on a nonabsorbent surface.
Prepare the target area by brushing on a coat of SC Johnson Klear acrylic floor wax (known as Future in the United States). While the decal adhesive is quite good, using Klear improves the contact between the decal and model surface, filling in any microscopic areas that could trap air.
Immediately slide the decal into position on top of the wet Klear.
Check the decal position and gently correct if necessary.
Using the same brush used to apply the Klear, carefully smooth out the decal, working excess Klear and air bubbles to the edges. Blot up any excess.
Allow to dry over night.
Repeat until entire area is covered.
When done, a “top coat” of your favorite finish can be added to seal the decal surface.

TIP: The fabric effect can be instensified by applying additional layers of these decals. This will also progressively darken the underlying color.

TIP: The fabric effect can be muted to suite your taste (when applied over a solid colored surface) by adding a glaze of the base color over the applied decal.